Bonus Trips to Villefranche-sur-Saône, Dijon and Postscript

Days 20 and 21

I am delighted that Belleville-sur-Saône has a station from where you can easily reach some splendid destinations. 

The station itself has been beautifully restored, which is lovely to see. As is so common at French railway stations, there is a nice restaurant nearby. 

'Le Buffet de La Gare' is very popular with locals. So much so, that all the tables on the terrace are full when I pop in for lunch, so I have to sit in the bar. But that's great, because I can watch the hustle and bustle and just soak up the atmosphere.

I just manage to finish my meal before I have to dash to catch the regional express train to Villefranche-sur-Saône, only 12 minutes along the track towards Lyon. I am delighted to find that the station is only a short walk from centre ville. The people at the tourist office are especially helpful in telling me what sights there are to see. 

In the office, there's an extraordinary machine, which dispenses a selection of Beaujolais wine at the press of a button. I purchase the necessary smart card and enjoy sampling a Brouilly and a Fleurie. Just as I am about to leave, a French lady engages me in conversation. This turns out to be Liliane Melinand, whose family run the Domaine des Marrans in Fleurie. Her wine is one of the dozen or so in the machine and I think she is rather pleased to see that someone is actually trying it out.

Villefranche-sur-Saône turns out to be well worth a visit, with lots of historical buildings, some dating back to the 15^th century, to see, a lovely 12^th century church and much besides. I am glad I am walking rather than in a car because the main drag, the rue Nationale, seems to be almost permanently gridlocked. For not the first time in Beaujolais, I note that the bakers shops seem to be vying with each other to produce the biggest meringues in town!

It's back to Belleville-sur-Saône for dinner, where we are joined by two Belgian couples. Dinners at Domaine Geoffray are always a delight, but especially when other folk are booked in. (The following night, three French couples arrive in 'Camping-Cars'. I have a look inside the impressive camper vans and am not surprised to discover that they each cost over €52,000. Gulp.)

My final bonus trip is on the line north to Dijon, famous mustard-producing town.

The station is undergoing a major transformation for the arrival of a new TGV line and, on September 1^st, two new tram lines. It's impossible to walk through Dijon without seeing publicity about the new DIVIA service, which will incorporate new smart card technology.

If Villefranche-sur-Saône was packed with history, Dijon just oozes it, although the Tourist Office is rather less forthcoming about what there is to see than their colleagues in Villefranche. That's bizarre but maybe it is just the smaller organisation being better at capitalising on their fewer number of resources?

I stop for a much-needed haircut and although I am not keen, 'un shampooing' is, apparently, 'obligatoire'. I am at pains to explain to the girl that I do not want too much cut off, but she does what she does and I won't need to visit a hairdresser again for quite a while.

Dijon is a lovely city with many lovely old buildings. I am drawn to Les Halles market, which is absolutely splendid and clearly hugely popular. It is surrounded by little cafés and restaurants which, at 1pm, are similarly packed. 

I choose the Café de l'Industrie, mainly because it seems to be especially popular and I am lucky to be given the one recently vacated table. It turns out to be an absolutely excellent choice. Interestingly, by the time I leave at 2.30, most of the hustle and bustle has left the street, the market stalls surrounding Les Halles are all gone and Dijon has gone into Saturday afternoon slumber mode.

I have to buy some mustard, but while a visit to the Maille Moutarde shop is interesting, the prices are extortionate. So I head to the nearby Monoprix supermarket where the same products are a lot more kind to the pocket.

I have added brief details of my two bonus trips just as an example of how flexible and easy it is to get about using railways as a means of travel. And how much there is to discover close to the many thousands of stations throughout Europe. I especially enjoy not being stuck in traffic or going around in circles trying to find a parking space. I like the fact that trains are generally comfortable, much more spacious than aircraft and there is no hassle about security.

For users of InterRail passes, the main tip is to book ahead on routes where there are compulsory reservations. That is especially vital when trying to use French High Speed Trains, the TGV's. Wherever possible, use the excellent network of Regional Express trains which are often less crowded and a lot more fun than their faster equivalents.

But do plan ahead. The Thomas Cook book 'Europe by Rail' and their European Rail Map are essentials. Their regularly updated timetables too are great to have with you, but, if you are online, I can also recommend the German Railways' website for the best up to date timetable information for all European trains.

Of course, as one who has been a victim of robbery, be vigilant with your valuables, especially near major railway stations.

An InterRail pass represents great value, is available in many options and can be bought by anyone.

In closing, I'd like to thank Eurail for giving me the opportunity to do the trip I'm also very grateful to the many friends who have contributed to such an excellent three weeks and the many new folk I have met along the way and who have helped make it such an experience.

If you haven't InterRailed before, try it. You will not be disappointed.

Best of the trip photos are at:

The very best of European Rail Journey 2012

You can see all the photos at:

European Rail Trip 2012

A lovely day in the Black Forest, plus relocating to Beaujolais

Having expected to have a very quiet Sunday, largely as a result of a very wet weather forecast, I awake to sunshine and fluffy white clouds. 

So, it's off to Ehrensburger's bakery in Lahr for an absolutely splendid al fresco breakfast. Not only lovely freshly baked breads and croissants, but slices of ham and cheese with some tasty scrambled eggs, washed down with freshly brewed coffee.

As it's turned out to be such a nice day, we decide to get into the cabriolet and drive to Staufen, a delightful village on the edge of the Black Forest. It's very pretty indeed and a perfect choice of Schwarzwald destination.

I am fascinated by the cracks on some of the otherwise pristine buildings. It turns out that, a few years ago, the town hall decided to get some geothermal heating and, during the drilling process, a chemical reaction occurred deep underground which has meant that some areas have shifted by as much as 30 centimetres. Google Staufen to find out the detail. 

Clearly, there is a fighting spirit in the town, because red labels have been positioned across the cracks with a slogan along the lines of 'Staufen is not broken'.

From there to the historic settlement of Breisach, bordering the Rhine and thus France. Archaeologists have discovered evidence of stone age folk living in the area, which was very important in Roman times. So, it's got a lovely atmosphere, with the original town built on a mound overlooking the river.

We stop for a drink at the museum gallery and bistro, which seems to be being run by folk on their very first day at work. It's a complete shambles with, it appears. no system or proper organisation in place. We eventually get served, but have to ask for the table to be cleared, which takes three attempts. The 'Museumsstube' should be a little goldmine – and possibly is – but anyone with any experience of the hospitality industry would make major changes to the way it is run.

There's a nice run through terraced vineyards, clinging to the edges of hills, before stopping in Teniningen for some much-needed sustenance. It's been a lovely day and all the better for evolving rather than being planned.

Overnight, it chucks it down and it is still pouring at 6am when I have to set off to start the journey to France. A bus to Lahr station is followed by a regional German Railways' train to Offenburg, where I pick up a regional express to Strasbourg.

Rather than stay in the station precincts for breakfast, I walk across the square to the Hotel du Rhin where a bit of bread, a croissant, some chemical tasting orange juice from concentrate and a pot of lukewarm coffee costs €8.50. I really thought that such mean French hotel breakfasts were a thing of the past, but clearly not. At least it's quiet and has nicely filled in the time between trains.

The French Railways' TGV from Strasbourg to Dijon is of the double decker variety. A large group of Chinese travellers with many suitcases are being installed which causes complete chaos as nobody is sitting in their allocated seats. But eventually it all gets sorted out. My oriental neighbours immediately set out to devour a large picnic of some strange looking and smelling foodstuffs, clearly brought from home, and proceed to wash it all down with French beer. It is just after 9am!

The Regional Express train from Dijon to Lyon turns out to be the best rolling stock of the day. Unexpectedly, there is a very nicely appointed and quiet First Class carriage with some very comfortable seating which makes the journey to Beaujolais country very pleasant indeed.

At Belleville sur Saone, I am met by my hostess, Brigitte. She and her partner Alain run a vineyard at nearby St-Jean-d'Ardières, coupled with B&B and an adjoining cottage. I am expecting to be staying in the main house, so I am surprised to be shown into the gite which sleeps 8. But Brigitte tells me it is vacant until Friday, so, for five days, I have more space than I do at home!

But at least I can do some washing, a much overlooked essential for a traveller, before doing some exploring in the local area.

Domaine Geoffrey, as the vineyard founded by Alain's grandfather is called, is right in the middle of Beaujolais wine country. There are vineyards as far as the eye can see. I set off on a little promenade, to discover later that I have taken a picture which shows Alain and his father, far away from me, tying up the vines by hand.

In the evening, Alain, Brigitte and I enjoy dinner in their kitchen, washed down with some excellent Beaujolais and Brouilly wines, all produced by Alain within a few metres of where we are sitting.

Despite the fact I am suffering from 'rage au dent', raging toothache as a result of losing part of a tooth in Australia, it's a lovely evening.

I repair to bed, armed with a pack of Dafalgan, a codeine/paracetamol painkiller mix that seems to calm things down for the night. Thankfully, I have a dental appointment set for next week, but it can't come soon enough.


Photos at:

European Rail Trip 2012

Days 11-14 Leipzig to Lahr and Strasbourg

When you travel by train in Europe, the train is pretty well guaranteed to leave from the platform that is listed, but each platform not only has a list of the individual trains, but also where your carriage will be. 

As the trains tend to arrive and depart very quickly, such information is really helpful to avoid a last minute scramble.

My first train I am joining is a German Railways' ICE, which runs between Dresden and Wiesbaden. I am only going as far as Frankfurt. The excellent German Railways website has said there will be 'high occupancy' on the service so, although it is not compulsory, I have booked a seat. 

As it happens, there are plenty available in First Class, so I move to a table for four, plug in my iPad and spend the journey watching the world going by while listening to podcasts.

Just before arrival in Frankfurt, there's an announcement, in German and English, about platforms for connecting trains, but of course there is no change from the information I already have on my booking.

At Frankfurt I join the ICE from Berlin to Basel, which, despite 'high occupancy being expected', is pretty quiet. I get off at Offenburg, to take the little regional train to Lahr, on the edge of the Black Forest. I am spending the weekend with a friend who works for German Railways, so it's just as well the train is bang on time!

In the evening, Anton takes me to the traditional 'Zum Klotz' restaurant in Lahr, where I have a really splendid steak with caramelised onions, prepared and served in a little cast iron frying pan.

On Saturday, more trains. We take advantage of the Europass ticket, which not only gives us the trains between Lahr, Offenburg and Strasbourg for 24 hours, but all the local buses and trams as well. The pass is just €12 for both of us, which, when a single ticket from Lahr to Strasbourg alone is €9.90, is sensational value.

At Lahr station, I try to change my booking for Monday, which currently has me routed to Dijon, via Basel, which is a very long way round. That's because all the InterRail seat allocations have already been taken. But the helpful man says he is sorry, there are plenty of seats on the train, but none for InterRail pass holders. Twas ever thus.

I have been to Strasbourg before, but only to see the major European institutions, never to the city centre. It turns out to be delightful, helped by the fact the weather is warm and sunny, when it was forecast to be wet.

We walk around the River Ill, near the Cathedral, visit the lovely little market nearby and enjoy coffee and a croissant in a café well away from the tourist hordes.

Strasbourg is clearly very popular with visitors, so in order to escape the tour groups, we take a tram to the University area, where the Restaurant La Foret Noir offers a truly excellent 'menu du jour'. For under €12, there's a tasty tuna salad, while the main is braised turkey with noodles. 

The flaky pastry fresh fruit dessert is simply sensational!

A great discovery nearby is the University botanic gardens. Surrounded by some very classy 19^th century buildings, it's quite difficult to find, but well worth the effort. The gardens itself are a delight, with a very nice hothouse with a great selection of tropical plants.

Back at Strasbourg Station, I make a final attempt to change my route for Monday and am very surprised to be told that, for an extra fee of €18, I can travel via Strasbourg. Bizarre, but it's good news. The girl points out that the booking I am cancelling is wrong, as it is for a 'young person'. I tell her, amid much laughter, that is really is for me!

The little OSB train from Strasbourg to Offenburg is packed with drunken, noisy German football fans, who we first met on the outbound journey in the morning and who have clearly been drinking solidly all day. Travelling with them is not at all a pleasant experience and I am glad when we reach Offenburg and transfer to the double-decker regional express for the short journey back to Lahr!

It will be a quiet Sunday pottering about the Black Forest, before an early start on Monday to be in Belleville sur Saone, not far from Dijon, in time for lunch.


Photos of the trip at:

European Rail Trip 2012