Days
20 and 21
I
am delighted that Belleville-sur-Saône has a station from where you
can easily reach some splendid destinations.
The station itself has
been beautifully restored, which is lovely to see. As is so common at
French railway stations, there is a nice restaurant nearby.
'Le
Buffet de La Gare' is very popular with locals. So much so, that all
the tables on the terrace are full when I pop in for lunch, so I have
to sit in the bar. But that's great, because I can watch the hustle
and bustle and just soak up the atmosphere.
I
just manage to finish my meal before I have to dash to catch the
regional express train to Villefranche-sur-Saône, only 12 minutes
along the track towards Lyon. I am delighted to find that the station
is only a short walk from centre ville. The people at the tourist
office are especially helpful in telling me what sights there are to
see.
In the office, there's an extraordinary machine, which dispenses
a selection of Beaujolais wine at the press of a button. I purchase
the necessary smart card and enjoy sampling a Brouilly and a Fleurie.
Just as I am about to leave, a French lady engages me in
conversation. This turns out to be Liliane Melinand, whose family run
the Domaine des Marrans in Fleurie. Her wine is one of the dozen or
so in the machine and I think she is rather pleased to see that
someone is actually trying it out.
Villefranche-sur-Saône
turns out to be well worth a visit, with lots of historical
buildings, some dating back to the 15th century, to see, a
lovely 12th century church and much besides. I am glad I
am walking rather than in a car because the main drag, the rue
Nationale, seems to be almost permanently gridlocked. For not the
first time in Beaujolais, I note that the bakers shops seem to be
vying with each other to produce the biggest meringues in town!
It's
back to Belleville-sur-Saône for dinner, where we are joined by two
Belgian couples. Dinners at Domaine Geoffray are always a delight,
but especially when other folk are booked in. (The following night,
three French couples arrive in 'Camping-Cars'. I have a look inside
the impressive camper vans and am not surprised to discover that they
each cost over €52,000. Gulp.)
My
final bonus trip is on the line north to Dijon, famous
mustard-producing town.
The
station is undergoing a major transformation for the arrival of a new
TGV line and, on September 1st, two new tram lines. It's
impossible to walk through Dijon without seeing publicity about the
new DIVIA service, which will incorporate new smart card technology.
If
Villefranche-sur-Saône was packed with history, Dijon just oozes
it, although the Tourist Office is rather less forthcoming about what
there is to see than their colleagues in Villefranche. That's bizarre
but maybe it is just the smaller organisation being better at
capitalising on their fewer number of resources?
I
stop for a much-needed haircut and although I am not keen, 'un
shampooing' is, apparently, 'obligatoire'. I am at pains to explain
to the girl that I do not want too much cut off, but she does what
she does and I won't need to visit a hairdresser again for quite a
while.
Dijon
is a lovely city with many lovely old buildings. I am drawn to Les
Halles market, which is absolutely splendid and clearly hugely
popular. It is surrounded by little cafés and restaurants which, at
1pm, are similarly packed.
I choose the Café de l'Industrie, mainly
because it seems to be especially popular and I am lucky to be given
the one recently vacated table. It turns out to be an absolutely
excellent choice. Interestingly, by the time I leave at 2.30, most of
the hustle and bustle has left the street, the market stalls
surrounding Les Halles are all gone and Dijon has gone into Saturday
afternoon slumber mode.
I
have to buy some mustard, but while a visit to the Maille Moutarde
shop is interesting, the prices are extortionate. So I head to the
nearby Monoprix supermarket where the same products are a lot more
kind to the pocket.
I
have added brief details of my two bonus trips just as an example of
how flexible and easy it is to get about using railways as a means of
travel. And how much there is to discover close to the many thousands
of stations throughout Europe. I especially enjoy not being stuck in
traffic or going around in circles trying to find a parking space. I
like the fact that trains are generally comfortable, much more
spacious than aircraft and there is no hassle about security.
For
users of InterRail passes, the main tip is to book ahead on routes
where there are compulsory reservations. That is especially vital
when trying to use French High Speed Trains, the TGV's. Wherever
possible, use the excellent network of Regional Express trains which
are often less crowded and a lot more fun than their faster
equivalents.
But
do plan ahead. The Thomas Cook book 'Europe by Rail' and their
European Rail Map are essentials. Their regularly updated timetables
too are great to have with you, but, if you are online, I can also
recommend the German Railways' website for the best up to date
timetable information for all European trains.
Of
course, as one who has been a victim of robbery, be vigilant with
your valuables, especially near major railway stations.
An
InterRail pass represents great value, is available in many options
and can be bought by anyone.
In
closing, I'd like to thank Eurail for giving me the opportunity to do
the trip I'm also very grateful to the many friends who have
contributed to such an excellent three weeks and the many new folk I
have met along the way and who have helped make it such an
experience.
If
you haven't InterRailed before, try it. You will not be disappointed.
Best of the trip photos are at:
 |
| The very best of European Rail Journey 2012 |
You can see all the photos at:
 |
| European Rail Trip 2012 |
