When
you travel by train in Europe, the train is pretty well guaranteed to
leave from the platform that is listed, but each platform not only
has a list of the individual trains, but also where your carriage
will be.
As the trains tend to arrive and depart very quickly, such
information is really helpful to avoid a last minute scramble.
My
first train I am joining is a German Railways' ICE, which runs
between Dresden and Wiesbaden. I am only going as far as Frankfurt.
The excellent German Railways website has said there will be 'high
occupancy' on the service so, although it is not compulsory, I have
booked a seat.
As it happens, there are plenty available in First
Class, so I move to a table for four, plug in my iPad and spend the
journey watching the world going by while listening to podcasts.
Just
before arrival in Frankfurt, there's an announcement, in German and
English, about platforms for connecting trains, but of course there
is no change from the information I already have on my booking.
At
Frankfurt I join the ICE from Berlin to Basel, which, despite 'high
occupancy being expected', is pretty quiet. I get off at Offenburg,
to take the little regional train to Lahr, on the edge of the Black
Forest. I am spending the weekend with a friend who works for German
Railways, so it's just as well the train is bang on time!
In
the evening, Anton takes me to the traditional 'Zum Klotz' restaurant
in Lahr, where I have a really splendid steak with caramelised
onions, prepared and served in a little cast iron frying pan.
On
Saturday, more trains. We take advantage of the Europass ticket,
which not only gives us the trains between Lahr, Offenburg and
Strasbourg for 24 hours, but all the local buses and trams as well.
The pass is just €12 for both of us, which, when a single ticket
from Lahr to Strasbourg alone is €9.90, is sensational value.
At
Lahr station, I try to change my booking for Monday, which currently
has me routed to Dijon, via Basel, which is a very long way round.
That's because all the InterRail seat allocations have already been
taken. But the helpful man says he is sorry, there are plenty of
seats on the train, but none for InterRail pass holders. Twas ever
thus.
I
have been to Strasbourg before, but only to see the major European
institutions, never to the city centre. It turns out to be
delightful, helped by the fact the weather is warm and sunny, when it
was forecast to be wet.
We
walk around the River Ill, near the Cathedral, visit the lovely
little market nearby and enjoy coffee and a croissant in a café well
away from the tourist hordes.
Strasbourg
is clearly very popular with visitors, so in order to escape the tour
groups, we take a tram to the University area, where the Restaurant
La Foret Noir offers a truly excellent 'menu du jour'. For under €12,
there's a tasty tuna salad, while the main is braised turkey with
noodles.
The flaky pastry fresh fruit dessert is simply sensational!
A
great discovery nearby is the University botanic gardens. Surrounded
by some very classy 19th century buildings, it's quite
difficult to find, but well worth the effort. The gardens itself are
a delight, with a very nice hothouse with a great selection of
tropical plants.
Back
at Strasbourg Station, I make a final attempt to change my route for
Monday and am very surprised to be told that, for an extra fee of
€18, I can travel via Strasbourg. Bizarre, but it's good news. The
girl points out that the booking I am cancelling is wrong, as it is
for a 'young person'. I tell her, amid much laughter, that is really
is for me!
The
little OSB train from Strasbourg to Offenburg is packed with drunken,
noisy German football fans, who we first met on the outbound journey
in the morning and who have clearly been drinking solidly all day.
Travelling with them is not at all a pleasant experience and I am
glad when we reach Offenburg and transfer to the double-decker
regional express for the short journey back to Lahr!
It
will be a quiet Sunday pottering about the Black Forest, before an
early start on Monday to be in Belleville sur Saone, not far from
Dijon, in time for lunch.
Photos of the trip at:
Photos of the trip at:
 |
| European Rail Trip 2012 |
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