Having
expected to have a very quiet Sunday, largely as a result of a very
wet weather forecast, I awake to sunshine and fluffy white clouds.
So, it's off to Ehrensburger's bakery in Lahr for an absolutely
splendid al fresco breakfast. Not only lovely freshly baked breads
and croissants, but slices of ham and cheese with some tasty
scrambled eggs, washed down with freshly brewed coffee.
As
it's turned out to be such a nice day, we decide to get into the
cabriolet and drive to Staufen, a delightful village on the edge of
the Black Forest. It's very pretty indeed and a perfect choice of
Schwarzwald destination.
I
am fascinated by the cracks on some of the otherwise pristine
buildings. It turns out that, a few years ago, the town hall decided
to get some geothermal heating and, during the drilling process, a
chemical reaction occurred deep underground which has meant that some
areas have shifted by as much as 30 centimetres. Google Staufen to
find out the detail.
Clearly, there is a fighting spirit in the town,
because red labels have been positioned across the cracks with a
slogan along the lines of 'Staufen is not broken'.
From
there to the historic settlement of Breisach, bordering the Rhine and
thus France. Archaeologists have discovered evidence of stone age
folk living in the area, which was very important in Roman times. So,
it's got a lovely atmosphere, with the original town built on a mound
overlooking the river.
We
stop for a drink at the museum gallery and bistro, which seems to be
being run by folk on their very first day at work. It's a complete
shambles with, it appears. no system or proper organisation in
place. We eventually get served, but have to ask for the table to be
cleared, which takes three attempts. The 'Museumsstube' should be a
little goldmine – and possibly is – but anyone with any
experience of the hospitality industry would make major changes to
the way it is run.
There's
a nice run through terraced vineyards, clinging to the edges of
hills, before stopping in Teniningen for some much-needed sustenance.
It's been a lovely day and all the better for evolving rather than
being planned.
Overnight,
it chucks it down and it is still pouring at 6am when I have to set
off to start the journey to France. A bus to Lahr station is followed
by a regional German Railways' train to Offenburg, where I pick up a
regional express to Strasbourg.
Rather
than stay in the station precincts for breakfast, I walk across the
square to the Hotel du Rhin where a bit of bread, a croissant, some
chemical tasting orange juice from concentrate and a pot of lukewarm
coffee costs €8.50. I really thought that such mean French hotel
breakfasts were a thing of the past, but clearly not. At least it's
quiet and has nicely filled in the time between trains.
The
French Railways' TGV from Strasbourg to Dijon is of the double decker
variety. A large group of Chinese travellers with many suitcases are
being installed which causes complete chaos as nobody is sitting in
their allocated seats. But eventually it all gets sorted out. My
oriental neighbours immediately set out to devour a large picnic of
some strange looking and smelling foodstuffs, clearly brought from
home, and proceed to wash it all down with French beer. It is just
after 9am!
The
Regional Express train from Dijon to Lyon turns out to be the best
rolling stock of the day. Unexpectedly, there is a very nicely
appointed and quiet First Class carriage with some very comfortable
seating which makes the journey to Beaujolais country very pleasant
indeed.
At
Belleville sur Saone, I am met by my hostess, Brigitte. She and her
partner Alain run a vineyard at nearby St-Jean-d'Ardières,
coupled with B&B and an adjoining cottage. I am expecting to be
staying in the main house, so I am surprised to be shown into the
gite which sleeps 8. But Brigitte tells me it is vacant until Friday,
so, for five days, I have more space than I do at home!
But
at least I can do some washing, a much overlooked essential for a
traveller, before doing some exploring in the local area.
Domaine
Geoffrey, as the vineyard founded by Alain's grandfather is called,
is right in the middle of Beaujolais wine country. There are
vineyards as far as the eye can see. I set off on a little promenade,
to discover later that I have taken a picture which shows Alain and
his father, far away from me, tying up the vines by hand.
In
the evening, Alain, Brigitte and I enjoy dinner in their kitchen,
washed down with some excellent Beaujolais and Brouilly wines, all
produced by Alain within a few metres of where we are sitting.
Despite
the fact I am suffering from 'rage au dent', raging toothache as a
result of losing part of a tooth in Australia, it's a lovely evening.
I
repair to bed, armed with a pack of Dafalgan, a codeine/paracetamol
painkiller mix that seems to calm things down for the night.
Thankfully, I have a dental appointment set for next week, but it
can't come soon enough.
Photos at:
Photos at:
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| European Rail Trip 2012 |
